The city of Cusco is one of Peru's most important - and most visited - travel destinations, and for good reason: this was the heart of the Inca Empire, a place where all the myth and legend of ancient Andean societies found their most visible and enduring expressions. And that legacy is everywhere; in the city's great ruins and the enormous stone walls that remain standing to this day, in the surrounding villages that have been continuously inhabited for countless centuries and in the faces of the Quechua-speaking locals - people who have seen empires come and go, while their culture and traditions remain as vibrant as ever.
But what what you won't read in most of the guides is that all is not necessarily well in this most popular of popular tourist hotspots. Cusco is a city inundated by visiting outsiders, flocking to experience the city's stunning architecture and its proximity to Peru's other major draw cards, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.
Cusco is struggling under the strain of its own popularity and it is hugely important that visitors are mindful of their impact on the city, environment and culture that they are visiting. This covers the obvious: try to limit your environmental impact and not worsen the city's congestion problem by zipping around in taxis or small tour buses, ask before taking anyone's photograph and don't be surprised if your subject expects a Sol or two in return.
But also try to learn a little about the culture you're visiting before you arrive. Understand that indigenous Andean communities are often more conservative than Hispanic Peruvians and Westerners, and that for them, many of the must see tourist sights are actually deeply sacred places.
Your Peru Guide: Cusco Highlights In Pictures
The Plaza de Armas is Cusco's old colonial centre, dominated by the Cathedral and several churches. The Cathedral and the Church of the Companion of Jesus are well worth a visit, especially the Cathedral's collection of art from the Cusco School, a blending of indigenous and European influences that represents the cultural assimilation that took place here following the conquest.
The ruins of Saqsaywaman sit on a hilltop looking down over the city and are constructed of enormous stone blocks and impressive fortifications, making everyone assume the place was originally a military fortress. But recent discoveries have suggested the site was at least as important as a spiritual centre. Despite this, the jagged pattern of the walls are still recognisable as the fearsome jaguar teeth they were first intended to replicate.
The neighbourhood of San Blas rises up away from the centre on a steep hillside, and his home to a warren of winding cobbled streets, small squares and original colonial architecture. San Blas gets even more atmospheric at night when the area's bars come alive. Live music and drinks offers can be found in virtually any of the bars around the popular KM 0. They're all tried, tested and recommended.
Visiting Tips
Cusco is a high altitude city. Over 3,300 meters high. And that means very thin air for us sea-level dwellers, which can take several days getting used to. In fact, it's advisable to work your way up to this altitude and visit some of Peru's slightly lower sights first - Arequipa and the Sacred Valley are ideal. If you fly straight to Cusco from Lima, expect at least a tinge of soroche (altitude sickness) which can cause lethargy, headaches and vomiting. Don't overexert yourself, don't overindulge (especially with the booze), and feel free to try a mouthful of coca leaves, or at least some coca leaf tea, which really does help.
Most visitors to Cusco feel obliged to invest in the boleto turistico (tourist ticket) which is required for most of the city's museums and other sights. The ticket is expensive though, and although it is valid for ten days, most visitors staying in Cusco for a few days don't end up getting its full value. Only buy it if you want to visit all the sights that are included, and bear in mind that some of the city's best museums and other attractions (the ruins of Qorikancha, the Cathedral, the Museum of Pre-Colombian Art and the Inca Museum) are not included.
Saying that, the nearby ruins of Saqsaywaman and most sights in the Sacred Valley are all pretty much must-see places, and they're all included in the ticket, so the choice is yours.
Way of Life:
Rhymes of the Inca
Pizarro
(Spanish conquistador ((1525))
The blind follow the blind
The dumb follow the fool
But the cleaver, like 'Pizarro,'
(who could not read or write)
Followed human-nature...
And ruled the Inca world!
Thus, Atahualpa was
Beheaded out of pride and
Indolence--: one might say,
And ignorance ruled... .
Note: don Francisco Pizarro #689 5/27/05
Cepeda the Sly
[Lima, Perú--l546 AD]
Cepeda the Sly--, judge
With two sides; one false,
One pride--both mixed with lies.
#694/5/30/2005
Antonio de Robles
[Cuzco, Perú--1547 AD]
He was a '...heartless wretch!'
A man who would not bend
No mans friend...
He met his prophetic fate
In defeat, on the streets
Swinging from a Cuzco tree!
#695 5/2005
General Quizquiz
[Cuzco--1533 AD]
The bravest of them all--
Was General Quizquiz
Inca General of Peru
Who harassed the Spanish
Conquistadors--
Thru and thru...
In Cuzco, He fought each day
His immortal enemies; and
With a storm, Quizquiz
In concert, butcher alive,
The conquistadors--
By and by... .
Note: #692 5/31/05
The Revenge of:
Titu-Atauchi
[1527-1533 AD]
Sancho de Cuellar
Court Clerk at Athualpa's trial
Was once, one of thirteen, now
The only one... (no heroism in his blood)
Captured by the Inca prince
Titu-Atauchi--
(no longer mocked the Inca King...)
Now the scapegoat
For Athualpa's killing...
Thus, this day he had no words
To worsen his own trail
(not like he did with the Inca King)
Thereupon, he was executed
By the prince, for testimony
In Spanish
Note: Titu-Atauchi, brother to the Inca king
Atahualpa; #693 5/2005
The Leyenda Negra
Se dice, que la Leyenda Negra, fue el tiempo de los conquistadores de Perú, principalmente aquellos de España; podrías decir que éste fue un tiempo igual a la Edad del Oscurantismo en Europa. Estos poemas son acerca de la gente que vivió a través de este tiempo; sus testimonios escritos ahora tradición. El fracaso de defender a Perú en contra de las fuerzas renovadas de Europa fue la fatalidad sobre Perú. Este período en el pasado cercano ha sido de poco interés para muchos, pero ahora es visto como historia formativa para Perú, rica y apasionante para el lector. Ricardo Palma fue en parte mi inspiración para esta parte del libro. Déjeme también añadir, éste fue el tiempo del Imperio de los Incas, que mantuvieron su supremacía hasta este final.
Pizarro I
(Conquistador español (1525))
El ciego sigue al ciego
El mudo siguen al idiota
Pero el inteligente, como "Pizarro",
(quien no podía leer o escribir)
siguió a la naturaleza-humana...
¡Y gobernó al Mundo Inca!
Así, Atahualpa fue
Decapitado fuera de orgullo e
Indolencia--: uno podría decir,
Y la ignorancia gobernó...
Nota: Don Francisco Pizarro #689 27 de mayo del 2005
Cepeda el Astuto II
[Lima, Perú-1546 Después de Cristo]
Cepeda el Astuto--, juzgó
Con dos lados; uno falso,
Otro orgullo-ambos mezclados con mentiras.
#694 30 de mayo del 2005
Antonio de Robles III
[Cuzco, Perú-1547 Después de Cristo]
¡Él era un '...despiadado desgraciado'!
Un hombre que no se doblegaría
No amigo de hombres ...
Él encontró su destino profético
En derrota, sobre las calles
¡Balanceándose de un árbol de Cuzco!
#695 Mayo 2005
General Quizquiz IV
[Cuzco - 1533 Después de Cristo]
El más valiente de todos ellos--
Fue el General Quizquiz
General Inca del Perú
Quien acosó a los conquistadores españoles--
De arriba a abajo ...
En Cuzco, él luchó cada día
A sus enemigos inmortales; y
Con una tormenta, Quizquiz
En concierto, descuartizó vivo,
Los conquistadores--
Mientras el tiempo pasaba.
Nota: #692 31 de mayo del 2005
Cusco was once the capital of the Inca Empire and is famous for being the entryway to the modern world wonder Machu Picchu. Almost every traveler on his way to Machu Picchu passes through Cusco at some point, and most end up falling in love with this city full of interesting architecture and picturesque city scenes. By night, Cusco is one of the liveliest cities in Peru and travelers will find plenty of bars and nightclubs to suit every taste. However, travelers should know there is much more to Cusco after dark than hanging out at a local watering hole. Here are the top three activities to keep you busy after the sun sets.
Cusco is home to one of the most spectacular theater groups in all of South America, Kusikay. Their current show, Paukartanpu, is receiving accolades from across the globe and you don't need to speak Spanish in order to enjoy it. The performers use a combination of acrobatics, dance, theater, and circus tricks to tell the story of a motley crew who discovers their Andean roots. A joy to watch, full of laughter, and rated as the number one attraction in Cusco on tripadvisor, this is one show you won't want to miss.
For an interesting night time excursion before enjoying an evening out on the town, head to the Cusco Planetarium. It doesn't matter whether you are interested in astronomy or not, because you will find this show interesting. You will first learn about the Incas relationship with the stars in the southern hemisphere, which will help you at Machu Picchu as many of the ruins have astronomical significance. After the 15 minute lecture you will head to the planetarium to see the constellations and learn about their importance to the ancient cultures before viewing the constellations again through telescopes under the night sky.
Or, if you are in the mood for a little exploration, head to the hills. The charming neighborhood of San Blas is home to Cusco's artists, writers, and musicians. This bohemian quarter boasts quaint cafes, spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, and a fabulous and diverse nightlife. The best time to visit is in the afternoon, when all the artists' galleries are open and you can browse the winding, cobblestone streets at your leisure. Make sure you grab a table at a restaurant with views to enjoy the Andean sunset with a glass of wine.