The city of Cusco is one of Peru's most important - and most visited - travel destinations, and for good reason: this was the heart of the Inca Empire, a place where all the myth and legend of ancient Andean societies found their most visible and enduring expressions. And that legacy is everywhere; in the city's great ruins and the enormous stone walls that remain standing to this day, in the surrounding villages that have been continuously inhabited for countless centuries and in the faces of the Quechua-speaking locals - people who have seen empires come and go, while their culture and traditions remain as vibrant as ever.
But what what you won't read in most of the guides is that all is not necessarily well in this most popular of popular tourist hotspots. Cusco is a city inundated by visiting outsiders, flocking to experience the city's stunning architecture and its proximity to Peru's other major draw cards, Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley.
Cusco is struggling under the strain of its own popularity and it is hugely important that visitors are mindful of their impact on the city, environment and culture that they are visiting. This covers the obvious: try to limit your environmental impact and not worsen the city's congestion problem by zipping around in taxis or small tour buses, ask before taking anyone's photograph and don't be surprised if your subject expects a Sol or two in return.
But also try to learn a little about the culture you're visiting before you arrive. Understand that indigenous Andean communities are often more conservative than Hispanic Peruvians and Westerners, and that for them, many of the must see tourist sights are actually deeply sacred places.
Your Peru Guide: Cusco Highlights In Pictures
The Plaza de Armas is Cusco's old colonial centre, dominated by the Cathedral and several churches. The Cathedral and the Church of the Companion of Jesus are well worth a visit, especially the Cathedral's collection of art from the Cusco School, a blending of indigenous and European influences that represents the cultural assimilation that took place here following the conquest.
The ruins of Saqsaywaman sit on a hilltop looking down over the city and are constructed of enormous stone blocks and impressive fortifications, making everyone assume the place was originally a military fortress. But recent discoveries have suggested the site was at least as important as a spiritual centre. Despite this, the jagged pattern of the walls are still recognisable as the fearsome jaguar teeth they were first intended to replicate.
The neighbourhood of San Blas rises up away from the centre on a steep hillside, and his home to a warren of winding cobbled streets, small squares and original colonial architecture. San Blas gets even more atmospheric at night when the area's bars come alive. Live music and drinks offers can be found in virtually any of the bars around the popular KM 0. They're all tried, tested and recommended.
Visiting Tips
Cusco is a high altitude city. Over 3,300 meters high. And that means very thin air for us sea-level dwellers, which can take several days getting used to. In fact, it's advisable to work your way up to this altitude and visit some of Peru's slightly lower sights first - Arequipa and the Sacred Valley are ideal. If you fly straight to Cusco from Lima, expect at least a tinge of soroche (altitude sickness) which can cause lethargy, headaches and vomiting. Don't overexert yourself, don't overindulge (especially with the booze), and feel free to try a mouthful of coca leaves, or at least some coca leaf tea, which really does help.
Most visitors to Cusco feel obliged to invest in the boleto turistico (tourist ticket) which is required for most of the city's museums and other sights. The ticket is expensive though, and although it is valid for ten days, most visitors staying in Cusco for a few days don't end up getting its full value. Only buy it if you want to visit all the sights that are included, and bear in mind that some of the city's best museums and other attractions (the ruins of Qorikancha, the Cathedral, the Museum of Pre-Colombian Art and the Inca Museum) are not included.
Saying that, the nearby ruins of Saqsaywaman and most sights in the Sacred Valley are all pretty much must-see places, and they're all included in the ticket, so the choice is yours.
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